Some More Finer Points on Assembly: Screw Sizes, Replacing Flowers & Plants, Fitting it Together

 So after moving and unpacking everything, toys included, I bought a special table just for my best number one A-frame house, put it together put it up in the window and then I unpacked my beloved a frame, it’s been in storage for over two years so I have not built one in over two years, so for the first time in a long time there was a few moments of, OK what goes next?, like which post covers go  where, naturally I was too lazy to go look up the instructions, fortunately there was no damage occurred in storage, and incidentally after two years in an unair-conditioned Storage unit where temperatures got to be 125° or hotter, there was no noticeable browning or fading of anything, but then It as only two years and there was no direct sunlight and it was insulated by lots and lots of packing material and other boxes. So, suffice it to say, here are some photos with some late breaking tips from the master himself, enjoy and I hope you incorporate these into your house or houses.

 Here's another look at my finished custom planter box, it's worth the extra effort (plant hunt, flower arrangement/installation).

This is the behind the scenes look at the method I personally use to secure the plants in place, I am sure there is a better way, but dollar store silk floral foam is my current method.

 When assembling the balcony and glass doors, ensure that the T-post base tab is on the top of the balcony floor. Otherwise, the doors will not go in (never force them in, it's not worth the risk of fracturing or snapping off the pegs).

 There should be a top gap between the glass door and the upper opening, this wiggle room allows installer to finagle the peg into place, if you do not see this gap, check the T-post tab and make sure it is not underneath the balcony floor.

 When assembling, to make sure the upper floor pieces do not get stuck on the posts, I take a rag and little spray can of oil, like Wd40, while holding the rag behind the post, LIGHTLY spray each side. After sliding the floor pieces down in place, never bang them all the way in, you run the risk of chipping the top part of the post covers, see here in this photo, you want push into place while at the same time wiggling into place gently, then turn the house section on its side and inspect to ensure that the post covers are securely tucked into the floor opening. I rarely use the bottom of the house screws since everything is a tight fit, one could use the roof screws as the roof pieces do separate rather easily without the screws. See previous posts regarding restoring and replacing screws.

  For my A Frame, I use the new replacement post covers (see earlier post on how to purchase them). Since these are identical to the originals, there is still one inner edge wider than the other side, since I like continuity and reasoning behind install methods, I always put the wider of the tabs on the outside side of the post, I think it 'puffs' it out a few more millimeters for a thicker post. Also, just because I have OCD (unofficially), I read the writing underneath all the floor pieces and have the side that reads, 'FRONT' on the front side, technically they are reversible and no one would know, but I would, so I do it. Speaking of reversible sides, I always wanted the circle patterned doors and wall panels to have the nicer, more 3D side facing out, but then you would miss out on the wall panels and door handles since they did not put them on the same side, so I display the way it was intended so it all matches and I get to see the paneling.


You'll also notice it gets stuck about ⅔ the way down. don't jam it down and force it. Simply pinch the sides and the center edge will bow out allowing you to easily finish sliding it down.

These are all dollar store items, so no big investment here. I used to use the rubber mallet to tap things into place, but if you oil it like described, then it will not be necessary.


The main thing to remember to do the best job assembling is not to rush it; put on some music, lay out the instructions, lay out all the parts, take your time and enjoy it.

Sorry I dont have the exact bolt or screw sizes but this should help you some. If you have at least one original bolt take it to the hardware store and there is a size identifier card on the shelf next to the bolts for this exact purpose. Remember not to force a too big bolt or it will definitely crack the surround, get the right size and then put a tiny half spray of wd 40 on it to ensure forever easy glide and non rusting screws. Good luck with it. =-)